Troubles with AEM Wideband Guage

TransAmDan

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
A wideband is very useful for tuning the car. It lets you know your Air to Fuel ratio. The car has regular lambda sensors just just say if its rich or lean but not by how muck. The Wideband lets you know how much. 14.6afr is around where the lambda sensors switch. For full throttle tuning you may want between 12.5 and 13.1 depending on RPM.
When data logging various sensors on the car I can plot the AFR too. However I have a problem with mine. It starts to warm up, appears to complete and then restarts the heat cycle. Feeling the sensor in the exhaust it is getting warm. Wiring all looks good. It has worked before.
[video=youtube;-MWHiwR2zUE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MWHiwR2zUE[/video]


IMG_20181227_152153.jpg

I don't know if it's the sensor or controller that's at fault.
 
Last edited:
After doing a google search this has happened to a few people, and they have been advised to contact AEM support. 30-0300 Gauge stuck in HEAt cycle | AE So I'll go down that route, and post here anything else I hear.
 
Wow, very impressed with their technical support got a reply back already.

Thank you for contacting AEM technical support.

Take a close look at the power source the gauge is connected to, if the power source is weak or sagging that could cause the gauge to stay in a heat loop cycle and that could also cause the gauge to turn off and on.

Also take a look at the harness for the gauge and see if any of the wires are loose in the connector between the sensor and gauge.
Click to expand...

I'll get on a try these suggestions either tomorrow or the next day. The joints are soldered into the wiring loom, Ill run some checks.
 
I turned the car around yesterday, and went via Asda. enjoyed hearing it fire up so had to drive it. The reason for turning the car around is so I can open the door as wide as possible to get to the fuse panel. Got to the wiring for the AEM guage, it has a good 12V straight from a fuse, a nice soldered joint.

Didn't fire up the car again, but it does seem the guage stays in warm up mode. So the next test will be to drive it, but I don't think any improvement has been made as there was a good connection there. I checked other connections to the sensor. Maybe the sensor is at fault, I have my old sensor somewhere, I may plug that in and leave in free air as a test.
 
I have been running Wideband for many years, so have a few old sensors. I think the last one started to run really lean, so it was time to change. However even if its miss reading but gets past the warm up cycle it will prove something.
 
Dan, I would agree, the sensor must surely be the most likely cause. I presume it outputs a voltage or signal when it's running? Is there any way to monitor that to check it's within range, perhaps with a multimeter or an oscilloscope? I wondered if you can get any info from the manufacturer in what parameters to look for? Or do you already have that data?
 
I’m assuming it’s a 4 wire sensor and earths through the exhaust? Probably has a 12v feed, a heater element, and a signal wires back to the gauge? Just a guess though.
 
I have found d my spare sensor. It's a 6 pin connector.
IMG_20190108_171922.jpg
The 12v feed for it comes direct from the guage which is on an ignition live.
 
Well got around to seeing about changing the sensor. Unfortunately although they are both 6 pins, one the old is a rectangle connector the new had rounded corners. So unfortunately unable to do a swap test.

I may have to buy a new sensor to test that way. If it proves the pod is at fault then I'll have to get another pod. However it could probe my current sensor had gone faulty, so at least I'll be up and running again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top