Well, plans have changed slightly again, but not by too much. Firstly I have a couple of advisaries on the MoT that I'm going to sort. The brake hoses are starting to perish around the rubber, so I'm going to replace those with braided lines. Also, there was some play in the passenger side wheel bearing, so I'm going to change all 4 at the front. All those parts are 41 years old, so I may as well. I'm also going to change the leaky seal on the transmission, which will save me a fortune in fluid. Will probably change the filter (did a couple of years ago, but may as well as the tranny will be drained) and put on a new sump.
Next up will be some top end work to the engine. For this I've pretty much had my head in books for hours and hours getting my head around what parts I need, to get the most efficiency out of the engine. I'm getting there with what I want. I know I want a fast street build with around 350-400 bhp with max torque at around 5000 rpm.
I've decided to go with a pair of RHS Pro Action aluminum heads. These will have 64cc combustion chambers (which with the 0.015 thick head gaskets should give me a compression ratio of 9.9:1 - assuming my current heads are 74cc, will be 10.1 if 76cc or 9.7 if 72cc), .560" valve lift, and 180cc runner volume (smaller runners for more velocity, 180cc is fine up to 450-475 bhp). They come pre-assembled with Comp Cams valvetrain (2.02" intake/1.6" exhaust), and flow around 240cfm, which again is plenty for my application.
I'll be changing headers for a set of full length Hooker competition's. I'll decide between 3" or 2.5" collectors closer to the time and when I have a better idea of the realistic bhp I'll be getting, below 375 and it'll be the 2.5"ers. Funds permitting I may go for ceramic coated, which should last longer and will reduce heat in the engine bay. I'll probably wrap the headers too, because it looks cool
and reduces heat. May have to lose the hornies though, depends how long the collector would be with them on (with glasspacks like that bolted straight to the collector, the end of the pipe is seen as the end of the collector so dictates the reflection wave time and therefore cylinder scavenging. I'll work out the optimum length and see where that leave me. If I have to change the purple hornies, I think I'll be going for an x-pipe and some high flow mufflers, then exit just in front of the rear wheels.
Cam, I'm looking at 4 degrees of advance with a duration of 224/224 (0.050" lash), lift of 0.326(0.522)/0.326(0.522) and 1.6 roller tip rockers (will use the original 1.5's for cam break in)
Intake manifold, my current Edelbrock performer should be adequate, but I may replace it with and Air Gap Performer or Performer RPM which will be better. I also need to decide on whether to stick with the Holley or put the QJet back on. The Holley is more easily tunable, but the QJet may give better results.
As for the bottom end of the engine, for now I'm not going to touch it, other than installing a budget moroso street/strip oil pan. The lower part of the block should be able to handle this amount of power.
Well, thats the plan anyway
* edit *
Forgot the air filter.
I'll be going for a K&N filter (think they're called x-stream, with the filter element around the side and in the top) then provide some kind of cold air feed to it.
