Running Trans-Am In

About $1300, which will be close to £'s after import tax.
 
if you want use of an engine hoist to remove the sump i have one
 
I have the remains of the old bolt, and new bolts are coming. I may be able to estimate how much if any of the bolt may be protruding.

I may have to use some form of 'easy out' to get the remains out if its recessed. Failing that, drill into it, tap and helicoil hole, I really hope it doesn't go down that route. We shall see.
 
I have the remains of the old bolt, and new bolts are coming. I may be able to estimate how much if any of the bolt may be protruding.

I may have to use some form of 'easy out' to get the remains out if its recessed. Failing that, drill into it, tap and helicoil hole, I really hope it doesn't go down that route. We shall see.

I have had success just drilling out the middle of the bolt, starting small and getting bigger until you can unpeel what's left from the threads without needing a re-tap or helicoil. But that's in iron and I don't think you would find it that easy in aluminum.
 
Comparisons of the broken sump bolt and a new one.
Yes all the new bolts arrive today, along with new gasket, and bottom pulley bolt.

IMAG7539.jpg

So I wonder if any of the bolt is sticking out of the block to make easy extraction. Its still looking promising, but may have broken flush.

My plan at the moment is to keep any eye on oil, its about half way up the drip stick at the moment. May find it could get to 1/4 way, any not move futher as its low enough to not come over the edge of the sump.

Went to a car show today, no big hills, and no smell of oil. So I dont think any leaked out of the back of the sump.
 
Hopefully bolt was on it's way out and not bottom out on thread when being done up , those are long bolts not seen sump bolts like that before,
 
Hopefully bolt was on it's way out and not bottom out on thread when being done up , those are long bolts not seen sump bolts like that before,

Only the two at the back are that long. The bottom of my engine is flat(without sump) So the rear bolts need to be longer to get through the box part of the sump.

IMAG7542.jpg

Sump with bolts inserted.
12628771-2.jpg
 
The threads shouldn't bottom out, the shoulders should.
The entire assembly including bolts is aluminum and I think the torque settings is something like 25 inch/lbs.
 
Found a solution to the oil leak in the Selco building supplies catalogue. The LS1 is similar to LSX, same series. Lol.
IMG_20200329_184824.jpg
 
Doh that's for boilers not cars. Surprised they were open all builder murchant closed like all the shops
 
Doh that's for boilers not cars. Surprised they were open all builder murchant closed like all the shops
:D it's an old catalogue I got about a month ago, just flicking through it after recovering from the fast walk.
 
Doh that's for boilers not cars. Surprised they were open all builder murchant closed like all the shops
I was wiring up at work last week and CEF, TLC and Screwfix were open, but with precautions in place (y)
Wickes and B&Q were closed though.
 
I was watching 'How Its Made' type program where they were aeembling a C7 engine, they applied a great bead of sealant on the sump. I know its a newer generation, and perhaps they had no gasket. The GM book for the transAm says do not use sealent, yet we see them using it in their manufacturing plant.
I only posted as I saw that odd picrture of sealent. I still need to remove my sump and inspect.
 
I was watching 'How Its Made' type program where they were aeembling a C7 engine, they applied a great bead of sealant on the sump. I know its a newer generation, and perhaps they had no gasket. The GM book for the transAm says do not use sealent, yet we see them using it in their manufacturing plant.
I only posted as I saw that odd picrture of sealent. I still need to remove my sump and inspect.

i have just taken the sump off a focus its stuck on with sealant. bent in the process. a gasket would have been a lot easier
 
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