AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Well done
Running Trans-Am In
- Thread starter TransAmDan
- Start date
Well more data logging has been done. Mainly want to see how fine I can get the fuel map of regular driving mapped in. Its not essential, but just something to do as I was going out to car club anyway, plugged in the logger. More open loop stuff, ignoring the regular lamda sensors.
Coming back from car club last night, I done a bit of throttle mashing. Done it in a couple of places.
A good place was a steep up hill on ramp to the motorway. That way I can stay in gear longer and get more results at the slower increasing RPM, as opposed to a flat road was its accelerating a bit quick.
Here we see second and third gear. Not to the rev limit just 5200rpm. The fuel ratios are very much spot on to what I requested, so I'm happy.
The values that are requested for Wide Open Throttle. 14.68AFR is regular driving, 12AFR is rich, shooting for around 13.06AFR in most areas, but richer around peak torque. My peak torque may have moved now. My peak BHP has probably shifted up higher in the RPM range. Its certainly in the right ball parks, no knock retard, and fueling looking healthy.
Coming back from car club last night, I done a bit of throttle mashing. Done it in a couple of places.
A good place was a steep up hill on ramp to the motorway. That way I can stay in gear longer and get more results at the slower increasing RPM, as opposed to a flat road was its accelerating a bit quick.
Here we see second and third gear. Not to the rev limit just 5200rpm. The fuel ratios are very much spot on to what I requested, so I'm happy.
The values that are requested for Wide Open Throttle. 14.68AFR is regular driving, 12AFR is rich, shooting for around 13.06AFR in most areas, but richer around peak torque. My peak torque may have moved now. My peak BHP has probably shifted up higher in the RPM range. Its certainly in the right ball parks, no knock retard, and fueling looking healthy.
Well about 120 miles of using the Miller 10W40 engine run in oil.
20miles after running the oil, checked the level, its was at max. Now 100 miles on of some hard miles, acceleration hard, its been a blast, I can say the engine oil is still at full.
Probably means the rings are seated. Will give it another 80miles then re check level, and look to swap over oil and filter to the Millers 5W40 super synthetic nano oil.
20miles after running the oil, checked the level, its was at max. Now 100 miles on of some hard miles, acceleration hard, its been a blast, I can say the engine oil is still at full.
Probably means the rings are seated. Will give it another 80miles then re check level, and look to swap over oil and filter to the Millers 5W40 super synthetic nano oil.
Had a squeaky pulley wheel, it was certainly RPM dependant, happened on the way to club night on tuesday, pulled over and the noise had gone.
Start it up this morning. the squeak was back, so got fuel and went to the local motor factors, got some WD40. This is all within a mile from home. Let the engine run on tick over noise don't seem to happen then, and sprayed the two idler pulley wheels. The noise appeared to get worse. Only sprayed two wheels, and it seems to of effected it. So hopefully that is all the squeaking is. Belt isn't too tight as can move it about 10mm.
Will take another look at lunch time. Hopefully is just a pulley wheel needing grease and nothing in the engine.
Start it up this morning. the squeak was back, so got fuel and went to the local motor factors, got some WD40. This is all within a mile from home. Let the engine run on tick over noise don't seem to happen then, and sprayed the two idler pulley wheels. The noise appeared to get worse. Only sprayed two wheels, and it seems to of effected it. So hopefully that is all the squeaking is. Belt isn't too tight as can move it about 10mm.
Will take another look at lunch time. Hopefully is just a pulley wheel needing grease and nothing in the engine.
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Drive the car to near Will's work place, just across the forecourt. Squeak was present. so took the belt off and started car up. This was to prove that it wasn't coming from the engine, and that it must be an accessory or idler wheel. No squeak. So took off two free running idler wheels, and oiled them up, one felt like it had more friction than the other. Both running free now, and put them back on. Put belt back on and started car. There was a little squeak, but then vanished after a few seconds. Left the car running for about 60 seconds and little rev, no squeak.
Took some friends kids to a prom last night in Gosport, around a 50 mile round trip. A few little blasts of the throttle, but most of it was sitting in traffic on idle for a long time. Car seemed happy doing that.
Checked oil this morning, it's about half way up. This was full about 60 miles ago, and fill 100 miles before that.
When giving its burst of throttle I did look out the rear view and no signs of smoke, where before it was like a quid ink trail.
Odd that the level has dropped after I thought it was stable. Perhaps sitting in traffic done something. Perhaps the oil has been sucked into my catch can.
190 miles on the millers run in oil. Was going to change the oil for synthetic tomorrow. Now I'm wondering what is best to do.
Checked oil this morning, it's about half way up. This was full about 60 miles ago, and fill 100 miles before that.
When giving its burst of throttle I did look out the rear view and no signs of smoke, where before it was like a quid ink trail.
Odd that the level has dropped after I thought it was stable. Perhaps sitting in traffic done something. Perhaps the oil has been sucked into my catch can.
190 miles on the millers run in oil. Was going to change the oil for synthetic tomorrow. Now I'm wondering what is best to do.
The Millers Nanaodrive 5W40 Millers Oils NANODRIVE CFS 5w-40 NT+ Full Synthetic Engine Oil is now in the car, with a new oil filter. Engine running in is all done. Just need to keep checking the level.
Drives pretty good. There is always something, perhaps i just keep checking things too much.
Anyway, remember some time ago, in conversation about the fuel pressure dropping off after a number of hours?.
We at present its dropping off quicker, and can see darker dust on the manifold, its not wet, just darker. I think some of the injectors have a slight weep. This will explain the faster fuel pressure drop off when the car isn't running. This could also answer the question on the leaner starts. It runs like a pig for the first 60 seconds. AFR guage shows lean, although where its still warming up, perhaps its not accurate at that point. Perhaps the injectors have a pocket of air they are getting rid of first.
So the options, well I could replace the seals on the injectors, they have been on there for about 10 years, taking all the injectors out have disturbed the seal. As the injectors are quite old, they may be flowing different rates, also the outside of the injectors show signs of corrosion. So I'm thinking a new set of injectors.
The ones i have are made by Racetronix flow 42lb hr @ 43PSI (my rail pressure is 58PSI) These should be good for 600hp.
There are some made by F.A.S.T which I have my eye on, as i have a F.A.S.T intake and fuel rails. so these could be perfect. FAST High Impedance 60 lb/hr Injectors | WS6store.com They are flow matched, not sure if this is 60lb/hr at 43PSI( injectors seems to be measured at 43PSI) or at the LS1 rail pressure, waiting to hear back on that one.
My coil packs are old, 188k miles on them, and 17 years old. Done very well to last. Perhaps time for new ones. I like the look of MSD, with their multi spark.
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8 | WS6store.com
Of course to delver the power of the spark, its time to invest in some good leads.
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve | Spark Plug Wires | Ignition | 98-02 Camaro/Firebird | WS6store.com
Email sent to the supplier to get a price on shipping.
Drives pretty good. There is always something, perhaps i just keep checking things too much.
Anyway, remember some time ago, in conversation about the fuel pressure dropping off after a number of hours?.
We at present its dropping off quicker, and can see darker dust on the manifold, its not wet, just darker. I think some of the injectors have a slight weep. This will explain the faster fuel pressure drop off when the car isn't running. This could also answer the question on the leaner starts. It runs like a pig for the first 60 seconds. AFR guage shows lean, although where its still warming up, perhaps its not accurate at that point. Perhaps the injectors have a pocket of air they are getting rid of first.
So the options, well I could replace the seals on the injectors, they have been on there for about 10 years, taking all the injectors out have disturbed the seal. As the injectors are quite old, they may be flowing different rates, also the outside of the injectors show signs of corrosion. So I'm thinking a new set of injectors.
The ones i have are made by Racetronix flow 42lb hr @ 43PSI (my rail pressure is 58PSI) These should be good for 600hp.
There are some made by F.A.S.T which I have my eye on, as i have a F.A.S.T intake and fuel rails. so these could be perfect. FAST High Impedance 60 lb/hr Injectors | WS6store.com They are flow matched, not sure if this is 60lb/hr at 43PSI( injectors seems to be measured at 43PSI) or at the LS1 rail pressure, waiting to hear back on that one.
My coil packs are old, 188k miles on them, and 17 years old. Done very well to last. Perhaps time for new ones. I like the look of MSD, with their multi spark.
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8 | WS6store.com
Of course to delver the power of the spark, its time to invest in some good leads.
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve | Spark Plug Wires | Ignition | 98-02 Camaro/Firebird | WS6store.com
Email sent to the supplier to get a price on shipping.
Spec of that Millers oil looks impressive.
PRODUCT NAME/VISCOSITIES:
CFS 5w40 NT+
DESCRIPTION:
Competition Fully Synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology formulation. Suitable for fast road/street modified
engines, race, rally, sprints, and climbs. Ideal for engines with hydraulic tappets e.g. Ford Zetec.
APPLICATION:
Use as received for competition or modified engines where maximum power release is the preferred criteria.
Formulated for high revving engines used in circuit racing or for larger engines for short duration i.e. hill climbs
and sprints.
USER BENEFITS:
Fully synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology Oil provides:
• Laboratory tests and results show up to a further 15% reduction in friction and up to a further 17% reduction
in wear over the previous award winning NT range
• Significantly reduced friction
• Reduced component wear promotes longer engine life
• Reduced heat production
• Increased power output and torque
• Improved reliability
• Improved energy efficiency
• Superior anti-friction and anti-wear characteristics
• Motorcycle wet clutch compatible
PERFORMANCE PROFILE:
• Manufactured to far exceed the requirements of API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B4
• Ideal for fast road or track day use, especially in engines where a 5w30 is normally specified
• Suitable for operating at 125oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC
PRODUCT NAME/VISCOSITIES:
CFS 5w40 NT+
DESCRIPTION:
Competition Fully Synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology formulation. Suitable for fast road/street modified
engines, race, rally, sprints, and climbs. Ideal for engines with hydraulic tappets e.g. Ford Zetec.
APPLICATION:
Use as received for competition or modified engines where maximum power release is the preferred criteria.
Formulated for high revving engines used in circuit racing or for larger engines for short duration i.e. hill climbs
and sprints.
USER BENEFITS:
Fully synthetic Triple Ester Nano Technology Oil provides:
• Laboratory tests and results show up to a further 15% reduction in friction and up to a further 17% reduction
in wear over the previous award winning NT range
• Significantly reduced friction
• Reduced component wear promotes longer engine life
• Reduced heat production
• Increased power output and torque
• Improved reliability
• Improved energy efficiency
• Superior anti-friction and anti-wear characteristics
• Motorcycle wet clutch compatible
PERFORMANCE PROFILE:
• Manufactured to far exceed the requirements of API SM/CF and ACEA A3/B4
• Ideal for fast road or track day use, especially in engines where a 5w30 is normally specified
• Suitable for operating at 125oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
I'd at least have the injectors overhauled to make sure the spray pattern and flow is there, but tbh I'd probably replace injectors, leads and coil packs. Just easier and less hassle.
I had the same feeling, its all getting old, so nice to start fresh with it all. It's all ordered, well the leads weren't in stock, so they are getting them in, should be about 3 days, then I'll pay them, and it can come over in one international shipment. It's all from WS6 Store where I got the stroker kit, heads, well pretty much all my non stock(rock auto) parts from, even my Injectors came from there over 10 years ago.
Checked oil level this morning,it was slightly down from when I filled it up. Went out to club night last night, drive to portsmouth, then to wickham then home. Card under the car all night, well card under the car since I changed the oil at the weekend. Not a single drop of oil has been lost.
Some club members said they could smell oil behind me. I think the sump is still weeping. When I changed the oil at the weekend, the edge of the sump was damp. I couldn't safely get the sump bolts any tight, not even quater turn on them. Around 3 of the bolts were damp with oil.
So it felt dry above the sump gasket. The other side it fine and the front. It's definitely just the drivers side. It is a new gasket. So at lunch time I brought some sump gasket sealer.
I have booked some ramp time at a local garage on Saturday, I will get the car up in the air, loosen off the sump(cant remove it, may be drop it like 5 mm), and get some sealer in on both sides of the gasket. Get this nailed once and for all.
Next question is, would it be best to drain the oil, or is the level of oil that's in the sump not go above the sump gasket. I would like to think the oil level is below the gasket line, as its not leaking when parked.
Some club members said they could smell oil behind me. I think the sump is still weeping. When I changed the oil at the weekend, the edge of the sump was damp. I couldn't safely get the sump bolts any tight, not even quater turn on them. Around 3 of the bolts were damp with oil.
So it felt dry above the sump gasket. The other side it fine and the front. It's definitely just the drivers side. It is a new gasket. So at lunch time I brought some sump gasket sealer.
I have booked some ramp time at a local garage on Saturday, I will get the car up in the air, loosen off the sump(cant remove it, may be drop it like 5 mm), and get some sealer in on both sides of the gasket. Get this nailed once and for all.
Next question is, would it be best to drain the oil, or is the level of oil that's in the sump not go above the sump gasket. I would like to think the oil level is below the gasket line, as its not leaking when parked.
Chriswrx123
Premier Users
Sump gasket sealer horrible stuff. I would drain oil out and keep to fill back up then I would remove sump and gasket clean both surfaces check that sump surface is flat steel ruler ? Then I would re fit sump gasket with a heavy smear of grease on both sides helps to hold gasket in place and seal. I would then set about tighting sump bolts in a clockwise fashion like head bolts and they should only be nipped up to slightly compress gasket even pressure all round if you over tighten bolts you will distort sump flange then it will leak!!! From the point in between bolt holes
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
What Chris said, spot on!
Super stuff, I will be borrowing a garage lift on Saturday, so will drain the oil and release the sump as much as possible, it won't come off, but will give me enough room to clean up surfaces and seal that sucker in there.
I have torque specs and sequence.
Thanks for the advice :thumb:
I have torque specs and sequence.
Thanks for the advice :thumb:
Took the TA to a garage today, just to borrow their lift.
Drained the oil.
Sump all undone, which free's the gasket.
Something interesting in the area where it appears to leak. there is a hole in the gasket, but not in the sump or the block. Its like a later model has an additional hole as it was a week spot, perhaps?
Had to removed the starter to give more room.
Sealent put in all round, on both side of the gasket, just a smear. Bolted it back together and it oozed out.
Drained the oil.
Sump all undone, which free's the gasket.
Something interesting in the area where it appears to leak. there is a hole in the gasket, but not in the sump or the block. Its like a later model has an additional hole as it was a week spot, perhaps?
Had to removed the starter to give more room.
Sealent put in all round, on both side of the gasket, just a smear. Bolted it back together and it oozed out.
saleen 192
Core Member
Nice clean tidy workshop hope your house keeping is good? who am i kidding lol,,,,,
Tools all cleaned and put back in boot. I came prepared brought all my tools with me.
Nice big workshop, they have 4 of them lifts and an MOT bay.
Nice big workshop, they have 4 of them lifts and an MOT bay.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Good work, hope it solves it and you can finally close the book on this rebuild.
Well drove to the show and back today, no signs of any loss on the drip stick. Lets hope it stays that way.
Car running far better on startup when cold now after some further tuning. Before it would be fine after the first 120 seconds, but very difficult to reverse out of the drive before then without making too much noise, revs would go up, but no power. Anyway all sorted now while adjusting the cold 'choke' fueling table.
Drove the car to work and back yesterday and to Kev's house(95 firebird), checked the oil this morning and no noticeable loss in oil.
Drove the car to work and back yesterday and to Kev's house(95 firebird), checked the oil this morning and no noticeable loss in oil.
