Started dismantling Trans-Am engine

Done a little more tweaking today.
took it to my aunties, she was really happy to see it, and Mum heard it come up the drive, she is bed bound, but was very happy to hear it near.

Made some adjustments to spark timing, also went for a longer run and data logging.
06052017_drive_fuel_trims.jpg
Need to take a bit of fuel at the lower loads, but add some at the higher end of the MAP range.

This used to be pretty even, the stroker and cam has made a bigger difference than the head cam change a long time ago. I guess it would make a bigger difference, as its quite a big change.
 
Done a little more tweaking today.
took it to my aunties, she was really happy to see it, and Mum heard it come up the drive, she is bed bound, but was very happy to hear it near.

Made some adjustments to spark timing, also went for a longer run and data logging.
View attachment 81594
Need to take a bit of fuel at the lower loads, but add some at the higher end of the MAP range.

This used to be pretty even, the stroker and cam has made a bigger difference than the head cam change a long time ago. I guess it would make a bigger difference, as its quite a big change.

Great news that the TA passed the MOT and is back on the road Dan. Sorry I was unable to help with the final reassembly last weekend due to being away. I liked your comment that your dear Mum heard it coming..awesome!
I was gutted that I wasn't able to be there for the first start up and thanks for sending me the video clip. Looking forward to hearing if first hand up the hill in the morning!!
 
Great news that the TA passed the MOT and is back on the road Dan. Sorry I was unable to help with the final reassembly last weekend due to being away. I liked your comment that your dear Mum heard it coming..awesome!
I was gutted that I wasn't able to be there for the first start up and thanks for sending me the video clip. Looking forward to hearing if first hand up the hill in the morning!!

The car was soo close before you went away, although I must have put in 12hours of putting the last bits on over that bank holiday. Would have been great if you were there, seeing all that work come to life. You really helped me out a lot. Never gone that far into an engine. We can say every bolt of that engine was removed, cleaned or replaced. A job well done.
 
The car was soo close before you went away, although I must have put in 12hours of putting the last bits on over that bank holiday. Would have been great if you were there, seeing all that work come to life. You really helped me out a lot. Never gone that far into an engine. We can say every bolt of that engine was removed, cleaned or replaced. A job well done.

Thanks for your comments Dan. I enjoyed working on it. For me, there is a fine line between what is the most fun, driving them or working on them. But I guess many of us are like that lol
 
Drove it to Hayling today for the show, all running good. Oil pressure and temperature all good. Need more tuning, but it is getting there. Very enjoyable drive. Sarah was at a potential wedding venue in Chichester which she liked, so after the show I popped along to take a look. Car ran great. Well when not under-load it doesn't know weather to slow down or accelerate, this is probably just a timing adjustment for that area of the timing map.
 
Was good to see it there Dan - well done again - and that colour is great!
 
Good to see you both too. Great to catch up. Glad the Trans-am is back on the road.

I done some things to it yesterday, but didn't update the thread.
IMAG5113.jpg
Wires in a new wide-band guage. Camera shutter speed didn't quite catch the reading. I had an older one to this that was a bit knackered. Its much needed for tuning.

IMAG5115.jpg
Jacking the car up to check on everything underneath. All looks good still.

IMAG5116.jpg
The new jack is awesome, lifts from 70mm up to over 500mm. Have to keep an eye on the tail, as it gets close when the front is up.
 
Been having some problems with my tuning software. The scanning part of it works great. Some of the editing works, but when i try to get into screens I could normally get into it bombs out. The reason for this is that i am using windows 10, which comes with the .NET 4 framework, it really requires version 2, which you can enable in windows 10 by enabling version 3. However it doesn't appear to fully work. tried to install it on the work PC and they didn't want to know either.

So really to tune the area I want, I need a windows XP machine. The software I have is 13 years old. Its done well to last this long. Yeah i could get a cheap windows box and install it, but it handy to have on the laptop. I could do a dual boot with windows XP on a separate partition, but that may not end well. Or the other option is to buy the new version of the software which required .NET4, which works on Windows10, as I have downloaded the demo and works fine, I can edit my ECU files, although as its a demo you cannot save the files.

This software is by HPTuners, HPTuners.com >> Performance At Your Fingertip I like the way it works, so happy to buy it again. i get 20% discount for returning my old programming pod. It has many nice interesting new features too, like RTT (Real time Tuning) also data logging analogue inputs, like additional sensors.

The delivery time is up to 6 days. This will certainly come in very handy for the next part of tuning.
 
Do they have a linux variety?
If so, repartition your existing laptop with either Suse or Ubuntu and do it that way. Open Source won't give you the Support issues of Microshit and it being unsupported after a few years.
 
Sadly no linux variation. That would have been handy as I do have a Linux PC that I just installed the OS fresh to use as a web server, but didn't go that route in the end.
 
The software and Hardware is on its way today, got a DHL tracking number, although its not registering in the system yet, I'm a little eager to watch it travel the states.
 
Started watching the travel. It's been picked up by DHL, and should arrive here on Friday :)
 
Is this year/manufacturer/model locked or can you start selling your skills?

I could sell my skills, basically I know I can scan 98 to 2002, Camaros, Vettes and TransAm's, I can only remap 2000 LS1's at present.
The new licencing gives you 8 GM credits. 2 Credits would be used for me car, so technically I could tunes 4 cars like mine, and GM. Each license type has an associated number of credits that are required to activate it. You could use these credits to license four LS1 Single vehicles or two LS2 vehicles, or 2 x LS1 and 1 x LS2 etc. If there isn't enough credits to activate the desired license you must purchase and add more credits. Eg. If you have 4 existing credits and wish to activate an LS1 year/model license (requires 6 credits) you would need to purchase at least 2 additional credits before that option would be available. Overall, the credit is the basic measure of what licenses you can and can't activate at any time.

More on licencing...HPTuners.com >> Performance At Your Fingertip
So yes could help out some people in the club, to help pay for the product.


UPDATE: just got a text message from DHL, for a customs fee of £139, so paid that straight away so not to hold up the delivery.

UPDATE: arrived in the midlands. Not scheduled until Friday, but it could arrive tomorrow at that speed.

UPDATE: 11th May 8:39am, parcel in Southamton which is the local delivery depot, but I guess its got there too late to be on the van for today, so still on schedule for delivery tomorrow.
 
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Oil

Well once this tank of fuel has gone, that will be pretty much time for another oil change.

The question is, what oil to get. some people say Fully synthetic is a no no, but then some people say that is the way to go. So I don't know what to go for.

I used to run semi-synthetic, but what I ran in the past may not be best to go on, as I got engine damage.

I looked in the workshop manual.
IMAG5451.jpg
It says the weight is critical. i am currently running 10w30 which is correct for our current temperatures. I cant find in the book where it mentions mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic only the weight.

Opie Oils have
Fuchs - Fuchs TITAN Uni HD SAE 10W/30 Uni Engine Oil
Redline - Synthetic RED LINE High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil 10w-30
Motul - Mineral Motul 4000 Motion 10W-30 Mineral Car Engine Oil
 
Not sure about your engine but old Fords like mine with a similar cam/hydraulic lifters set up need oil with ZDDP in it to reduce wear etc.
 
Well once this tank of fuel has gone, that will be pretty much time for another oil change.

The question is, what oil to get. some people say Fully synthetic is a no no, but then some people say that is the way to go. So I don't know what to go for.

I used to run semi-synthetic, but what I ran in the past may not be best to go on, as I got engine damage.

I looked in the workshop manual.
View attachment 82231
It says the weight is critical. i am currently running 10w30 which is correct for our current temperatures. I cant find in the book where it mentions mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic only the weight.

Opie Oils have
Fuchs - Fuchs TITAN Uni HD SAE 10W/30 Uni Engine Oil
Redline - Synthetic RED LINE High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil 10w-30
Motul - Mineral Motul 4000 Motion 10W-30 Mineral Car Engine Oil


I'd go synthetic in the correct weight, but not yet. Get a few more miles on the rebuild before you switch.
 
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