Started dismantling Trans-Am engine

Drive like Darren or maybe abit faster
What does Darren drive like these days? I dont know if he is starting to drive like a sheep herder.
 
Ewe lot trying to be funny ???????
 
Well this evening the the evening for the engine run in. I have some boxes, and loft insulation that I will put around the rear of the car to help deaden the sound. May find it quieter at 2k-3k rpm rather than tick over.
While it's doing its thing, I will keep a listen for engine tones and temperature, may do data logging too. I could possibly vary RPM though the laptop with the IAC, not sure how much impact it has on RPM above 2k RPM. but it would save me varying the wedge of wood on the throttle body. I'll also get the center console put in at the same time.

Picking up oil on the way back after work today. A decent semi-synthetic 10w30 oil seems to be the one to aim for. Often 5w-30 is run, but 10w30 can quieten the engine a bit. I used to swap between the two.
 
The IAC is in-effective once the blades in the throttle body are open. It's exclusively used to control air flow when the blades are shut so you won't be able to control idle speed with it if the throttle is wedged open.
You might need to put some weight in the boxes to prevent the exhaust blow pushing them backwards.

Otherwise, good luck.
 
Well nothing went ping, or bank.
Had trouble idling though. Certainly needs a tune. Could smell it was rich, and the fuel trims are adjusting by taking 12% out.
Burn_in_log_383ci.jpg

So I have adjusted to take 12% out of all lower RPM's. Will zap it in in a bit.
 
It's easy to take it out in smaller amounts than it is to go too lean too fast and suffer the consequences.
You know what your doing with this stuff so just watch for retard on the knock sensor and monitor that wideband.
 
Started to put interior back in.
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Time to start the engine run in. Laptop ready, handy to monitor many things.
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Looks to be running good,the warmed up, and closed loop has started, so the lambda sensors are supplying the ECU with information to adjust fuel, this rapidly happens like a few times a second depending on RPM and you see the sensor switch high or low if AFR is above or below 14.7:1.
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Guages look pretty good, thats where the temprature used to sit
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This stick was the perfect size for 2200rpm
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Although it the stick could move around a bit, but atleasted it varied the RPM's
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Engine run in went well. Over 2000 RPM and varying. It certainly didn't want to tick over. Got very nice and warm, the heat from the exhaust was causing oil from the underside of the car to burn and come in through the gear stick hole. Engine temp remains under half way the entire time. Added padding behind the car to help keep the noise down. Engine sounded pretty much the same throughout the duration of the run-in

After 20-25mins, slowed down the revs, and turned off fitted the interior. Waiting for oil to cool a bit. Then jacked up the car with my new shiny jack and draining the oil and took off the filter. I did cut open the filter looked at the element and found specks of metal, and looking at the oil there was a mist of metal. I guess that is normal.

Oil drained and then cut the filter with a Stanley knife (I see people used hacksaws, but surely you get loads of metal int here)
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Found a flake of metal.
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More flakes.
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The oil itself had a mist of particles in it.
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Fitted the new filter and put in oil. was going to take it for a drive, but it wouldn't turn over, battery measured 11.6V, starting it would just rapidly click. Checked connections under the car and on the battery, I guess its just the many times of starting it when it would idle on its own.

Thinking the engine may be hard to run I got a ratchet on the bottom pulley and rotated slowly, it did turn fine. Compression feels like great resistance, turning fast was very difficult, but slowly hearing the cylinders hiss it would rotate.

Took battery in to put it on charge, looks like it needs a charge.
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Never saw it go below 60psi, very good oil pressure, very steady, think it was getting near to 70psi when above 2000rpm. Usually when warm it would be about 40psi on idle, the 'run in' oil is quite thick. Good to see a good healthy steady oil pressure.

I made some fuel changed yesterday, taking around 12% out. Well struggled to get the car to work, had to start it about 10times, kept cutting out at junctions. The IAC is having trouble controlling idle, its moving, but cant go far enough. Some people have enlarged the hole in the throttle blade, I may have to do something like that so the IAC can regain control. I needed to drive it to do data logging for better drivability. MOT tomorrow, and I have the wedding competition to attend tonight.

Fuel trims are getting pretty close now. No need to tweak that any more.
05052017_drive_work_fuel_trims.jpg
I will get my wideband wired up for better resolution. Although this guage its better for more throttle, which I wont be doing just yet until I get some other tuning sorted first.
 
Based on your observations about oil pressure I wouldn't waste any time worrying about the little swarf.
Just run it and change oil again in a couple of hundred miles.
 
Zapped in a new tune before leaving work. Idling was sweet, driving and stopping was good. Didn't cut out, got some good data logging too. I'm happy. I'm getting this beast under control.
 
Absolutely - congratulations :clap2:
 
At one point when I was driving past my old work, it felt very smooth, quiet, around 2000rpm. Just light load. If anything probably smoother and quieter than before. Can't be alot wrong if at that RPM it's running sweet, I should get every part of the range to be great too.
I will keep ya all posted.
 
Well it passed the MOT.
Just wired in a new wideband guageband for tuning as the old one was a bit knackered.
Got a small exhaust rattle, so jacking it up to take a look.
 
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