Started dismantling Trans-Am engine

10pm wow must of been getting chilly by that time of night but at least rain didnt stop play.
 
Not a huge amount of room for the headers when viewed from the top.
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Sliding in the header from the bottom, there is a lot more room.
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Bolts put in finger tight, looks pretty good with the wrap on them.
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I popped on the starter before the headers as thinking that would make things simple. As you can see from this photo above the cables are way too close to the exhaust, they should have gone under the engine mounts. I rectified this before I finished, however need to rotate the direction the wires come off the starter. Only two bolts holding on the starter, so wont take long to sort that out. The headers wont really get in the way.

Drivers side was more of a pain, was pretty tight, and not down to ground clearance, its like the few mm thicker on the wrapping wasn't helping, and the oil filter was int he way, that was easy to remove the filter and get this header up in there.
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I will do more later on.
 
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Wont be long til start up ;)
 
port solent Sunday ?
May be tight for that. Going to spend many hours on it today. bottom pulley and Hydrualic clutch pipe may slow me down. The rest of it should be plain sailing.
 
Working on the Trans-Am again today, manage to get a good 4 hours on it, although looking at what I achieved it wasn't a huge amount in 4 hours. But it is progress.

First job is to get the intake manifold back on.
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New oil pressure sensor fitter, its the one the stands upright right at the back.
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The intake is held on with 10 long bolts. The bolts towards the rear need to be in the intake first before placing the intake as you would never get them in. These bolts also stop you getting the intake in if you let the bolts hand out the bottom so you need some tape to hold them up. Intake put in place.
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All bolted up and tongued down, Fuel pipe connected.
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Wanting to get the bottom pulley wheel on, but I need a long bolt to pull on the pulley wheel I do have this somewhere, but its not in my hand. so go searching in the car. I find this bit of plastic, it goes around the starter. That means starter needs to come off again. So attached that, it didn't take too long.
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Coil packs to go on next.
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Nice and simple to put on, they didn't take long.
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Connecting the injectors up. Found one that didn't feel right, the wires was very flimsy. Looks like its been like that for some time, then it came off.
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This is the one at the rear on the drivers side, not the easiest to get to but its not the worse. All others looks totally fine. I can get a soldering iron on that to fix it.

So three things at the moment slowing e down.
1. Need to solder injector wire, but at present I have no mains, until will comes back on Tuesday.
2. Put on pulley wheel, but cannot find my long bolt, perhaps in Wills unit.
3. Cant get slave cylinder connected. Will take a look at this tomorrow.

My other plan for tomorrow is to put gearbox oil in the box.
 
Getting close - but don't rush otherwise you may make a mistake ;)
 
Got the tranny oil in there today. Borrowed a gas soldering iron for tomorrow. Got a tad wet outside there so stopped for today.
 
I have an aftermarket underdrive pulley/dampener, cost $200 when I changed the heads and Cam but it was so darn right, and managed to get it on, but fouled on something so it had to come off, the original was fitted.
So this pulley gets machined as it appeared it fouled on the casing of the oil pump. I checked the two pulleys side by side. The underdrive pulley should fit now. Although it's tight. It's an interference fit, but way too much interference. So been sanding down the inside edge. Then I made a tool to do it. If I take away too much I have the original to fall back on.
I cannot heat the pulley as it goes in through a rubber seal and could damage it.
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Drill attached to a block of wood via a screw. The wood had a grove to secure the sandpaper. Metal is coming off like fine powder. I will take this with me tomorrow to get this sucker to fit.
 
Any chance you could use a micrometer on the o.d. Of the crank and I.d. Of the pulley and get a machine shop with a lathe to take out the difference?

So do you know how much shorter the belt will need to be or will the tensioner accommodate it?
 
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Well achieved a lot today. will write more tomorrow. Getting late now. Enjoy!!.
[video=youtube;7vYwzbc6v5Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vYwzbc6v5Q[/video]
First start up checking oil pressure comes up. Then car off to fit radiator, and then a proper start/warm up. Exhaust has been wrapped, smoke can be seen coming from the engine bay, nothing to be concerned about. Sound lovely. Really happy with the way the cam sounds.
 
Hope you broke that cam in!!!!20mins at over 2000 rpm otherwise you have just knocked off all the prelube and now run the risk of lifter damage
 
Seconding what Chris said, although I have never broken a cam with roller lifters before so perhaps the process is different.
Hard to say from a cellphone clip but did sound tappy? Header leak?
 
Hope you broke that cam in!!!!20mins at over 2000 rpm otherwise you have just knocked off all the prelube and now run the risk of lifter damage
Hydraulic roller camshafts don't need to be broken-in. I checked on that one first. Its the other type that needs to be run in like that. Thanks for the thought. Got plenty of lube on there. Oil pressure very nice too.

Not gone over 1500rpm yet.
 
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