Started dismantling Trans-Am engine

Not a lot holding the engine in now, just gearbox and engine mounts.
Let's say engine is removed and on the engine stand. What do I need to change bearings? And special tools? I have a full set of sockets, Rachel's, spanners, Allen keys. Do the bearings just pop out once con rod taken apart? What about Cam bearings?
 
Yeah the Cam bearings do sound a bit tricky. Will have a better read when I get in and see what tool is needed.
 
Thanks for that Cam bearing install link Dave, looks like I will need to get that tool. I've printed it out, and will take it around to the local automotive tool place. Looks like that tool does a whole range of cam bearing sizes, so a good chance it's used on many cars with cam bearings.
 
The plan is to nip down to Denmead this evening, borrow and engine stand and engine hoist.
Disconnect the engine mounts, all electricals including starter motor wires, support gear box, disconnect bell housing from block, whip out engine.
Take off sump, check for metal fragments. After seeing the light damage/wear on the cam bearings, I have in mind that the cam bearings will need to be changed. So I think it is wise to change crank and conrod bearings too.
So hopefully by the end of this evening, the engine will be on an engine stand with sump off, and we can take a look for and marks on the crank. If badly scored then looking at a regrind or going the more expensive route or 383 stroker kit.
 
Sounds like a good plan.
Spending your money for you, I vote stroker kit. Should put you well into the mid-high 500hp with your other supporting mods.
 
Sounds like a good plan.
Spending your money for you, I vote stroker kit. Should put you well into the mid-high 500hp with your other supporting mods.

383ci stroker would be awesome, currently the engine is a 346ci.
My 346ci was dynoed at 477hp. So just percentage increase should net 528hp ( 477/346 * 383 ). Plus with that different cam, current cam is 226, stock was 200ish, new one is 240 degrees. so will certainly breath better, produce more power, but a bast*rd to tune for idle. but I will get there. I'd like to think I would make 550hp, which is pretty got for a normally aspirated LS1.

When my car was dynoed it was running pig rich above 5500rpm, it was still making more and more power up to that point, if this was leaned out and tuned above 5500rpm (rev limit at 6200rpm) it may have made 500hp. So say it did make 500hp, then a 383ci would make 553hp.

Wow, happy days, all that power sounds very tempting.

Realsteel do not have a 383 stroker kit in stock, its 2-3 weeks. They use Eagle cranks, I have heard of them and would be happy with that make. Time is an issue I have, who stocks a stroker kit that can deliver fast? Come on your minions get searching....:whip:
 
Just popped over to Will's work place, as he could do with a little more room behind his desk, so we shifted the Trans-am over a little. While I was there got this good shot of a cam bearing.
Feels a little rough, and I think that is a good reason to swap these out. There is 5 of them, will check out the others later.
IMAG4033.jpg
 
I can't search right now, but try Livernois or Late Model Performance or Hennessy. It means importing but my bet is that if you are prepared to pay you could have it in your hands by the weekend
 
Not able to view link easily from work, but assuming the crank mains are the same size and bearings fit no problem (no machining is required) then I don't see why not.
 
It's all a bit open ended. With your sort of mileage I think I would be looking at a cylinder hone if not a re-bore. If you are happy that the bores and rings are in good order and acknowledge you will be changing rod end bearings anyway then why not?
The LS engines are known to cover high mileages without too much concern but you have leaned on yours. How happy were you before this issue that oil consumption was normal? Any blue smoke when you stood on the loud pedal? Any concerns about detonation?
To answer your question, as someone who has never done bottom end I would be happy to bolt a kit in assuming that I'm happy there is no damage or excessive wear anywhere else.
If you have a weak component the added cylinder pressures are going to find it!
 
Myself and Will have both felt the bores, there is no ridges, and no scores, we checked all the way to the bottom, well as far as the piston goes down, and we are happy.

That kit is for 3.095" bore which is stock bore, comes with all piston rings, bearings etc..
LS1/LS6 Eagle Speciality 383ci Competition Assembly (3.905 Bore)

Part Number: 12804

Manufacturer: Eagle Specialty

Description:
Competition assembly for Chevrolet LS-series or Pontiac LS-series intended for internal balance

Bore Size: 3.905

Pistons and rings:

Arias forged 4032 -3.1cc flat top
ring size: 1.5mm 1.5mm 3.0mm
Crankshaft 4.0000" stroke standard 4340 steel

Connecting rods 6.200" standard H-Beam

Bearings Clevite CB663H rod bearings, Clevite MS2199H main bearings

NOTES: Uses 24 tooth reluctor ring

Apparently a little blue smoke did come out when I hoofed it, which was probably rings. Didn't drink much oil as such, I think the LS1 uses about a quart of oil every 1500 miles, from what I remember reading on Ls1tech. I wasn't far off that, so its not an excessive oil drinker.
 
That pic of bearing looks worn of one side but might be way picture was taken with light ?

is it worth doing valve stem seals as heads are of anyway i know time is a factor for you.


turning into more of a project think there's a few drinks in it for will for the hire if his garage siorry office lol,
 
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That pic of bearing looks worn of one side but might be way picture was taken with light ?
It is worn on one side, I guess the timing chain must pull it on that side. With a lot of miles one side would get worn more than another. It's normal for this front one to get more worn than the others, so it may not be from metal fragments, just general age. Still want to change it though and the other 4.
 
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