Needle bearings in the sump along with 2 sides of the Cam follower.
All out now, ready to bolt back together and get driving again.
All out now, ready to bolt back together and get driving again.
Started dismantling Trans-Am engine
- Thread starter TransAmDan
- Start date
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Take the time to make sure you clean thoroughly. All the oil galleries, the sump baffles, around the windage tray. That swarf can get everywhere and you don't want some little piece of shrapnel wrecking your new crank/cam/valvetrain.
Clean. Cleaner. Friggin spotless!
Clean. Cleaner. Friggin spotless!
saleen 192
Core Member
bet you glad you found that lot.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
In fact, have you got an engineering shop near you that can hit tank the block?
You have it stripped down that far.... in for penny, don't risk a needle roller!
You have it stripped down that far.... in for penny, don't risk a needle roller!
Looks like it's going to be a regrind.
RealSteal doesn't have a stroker kit in stock, 2-3 weeks delivery. Too long.
The place where I get many parts from in the States, doesn't have one in stock but can get it in a few days if Eagle have it in stock. Eagle have all the kit apart from connecting rods, the parts company are in contact with Eagle to see what options there are, like more expensive rods. A few emails back and forth last night, but no conclusion yet. That is when I noticed Eagle do a 395 stroker kit for the LS1. Some people have fitted this kit and are happy with it. Not really found anything negative on forums. Perhaps a possibility. If I cannot get it in under 2 weeks then it's regrind my current crank. I will still have more power than before due to the new cam.
RealSteal doesn't have a stroker kit in stock, 2-3 weeks delivery. Too long.
The place where I get many parts from in the States, doesn't have one in stock but can get it in a few days if Eagle have it in stock. Eagle have all the kit apart from connecting rods, the parts company are in contact with Eagle to see what options there are, like more expensive rods. A few emails back and forth last night, but no conclusion yet. That is when I noticed Eagle do a 395 stroker kit for the LS1. Some people have fitted this kit and are happy with it. Not really found anything negative on forums. Perhaps a possibility. If I cannot get it in under 2 weeks then it's regrind my current crank. I will still have more power than before due to the new cam.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
What's the reason for the time pressure?
Mr car is at Wills work place, I cant have it there too long, although Will is quite laid back about it, I dont want to take the biscuit. My original plan was 2 weekends. That will be this Saturday coming. There is a large delivery coming some time soon and there will be no room, the car is outside his work now, so not soo much in the way. The car park is shared, so got to make sure it doesn't look like I'm taking the mick there too. I could get the car moved home. It's just a lot of work to do that.
If I can get the parts in 2 weeks or less then I'm happy. 3 weeks is too long.
I know if it's a case of waiting an extra week for a stroker then it could be worth it. But if Realsteel has no stock, and Eagle in the states doesn't have a complete kit, the Realsteel would have issue getting hold of it too.
I am expecting an email back this evening. I guess until then I should get a quote on regrinding the crank.
If I can get the parts in 2 weeks or less then I'm happy. 3 weeks is too long.
I know if it's a case of waiting an extra week for a stroker then it could be worth it. But if Realsteel has no stock, and Eagle in the states doesn't have a complete kit, the Realsteel would have issue getting hold of it too.
I am expecting an email back this evening. I guess until then I should get a quote on regrinding the crank.
Clutch looked a little worn when it came out. Part of the issues was the spigot/pilot bearing on the end of the input shaft had turned to powder, and with that then end of the shaft could moved a bit causing this clutch disk to wander and rub on the bolts on the flywheel. The pads looks a little worn too, done 20k miles with this clutch, it's probably got more life, but it's the time to change it while we are in there.
So going to stick one of these in:- 98-02 LS1 SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit | WS6store.com
![stage3[1].gif](https://www.solent-renegades.co.uk/data/attachments/12/12411-3c97f0f1cbe0164ef8f595b980ed1b65.jpg "stage3[1].gif")
Clutch comes with a sprung center disk with 6-puck pad design. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination, rated to 832 ft/Ibs of torque. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.
I have had a Spec Stage 2+ clutch in the past and did like it. Happy to go Spec again.
So going to stick one of these in:- 98-02 LS1 SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit | WS6store.com
Clutch comes with a sprung center disk with 6-puck pad design. The disk pads are a carbon/ceramic combination, rated to 832 ft/Ibs of torque. The ULTIMATE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH! Sharp but smooth engagement with light pedal.
I have had a Spec Stage 2+ clutch in the past and did like it. Happy to go Spec again.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
If it was me, I'd move the car home whilst o sourced the parts. Do what you want to do and not what time dictates.
Have you tried the big specialty companies for a kit? Lingenfelter, Livernois, LMP etc?
Have you tried the big specialty companies for a kit? Lingenfelter, Livernois, LMP etc?
TSP show one on their website for similar price, I may shoot them an email later.
TSP 383 C.I.D. Rotating Assembly
TSP 383 C.I.D. Rotating Assembly
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
And with regard to the clutch, bearing or bushing?
My preference is bearing, but IIRC the LS crank is hollow so be careful not to push the replacement too far in.
If the bearing/bushing has worn it might point to the input shaft having a twist/bend so would be worth investigating that too.
Shocking how quickly things can snowball!
My preference is bearing, but IIRC the LS crank is hollow so be careful not to push the replacement too far in.
If the bearing/bushing has worn it might point to the input shaft having a twist/bend so would be worth investigating that too.
Shocking how quickly things can snowball!
Will check the input shaft of the gearbox. Cat really add a t56 to the shopping list though.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
You wouldn't need too. The t56 is used in stacks of cars and the input shaft isn't a huge job.
Besides, with the power you are going to be putting down you might want to consider either face plating the t56 or a swap to a tr6060.
I would probably just replace the bushing with a bearing and be done with it if it was me.
Besides, with the power you are going to be putting down you might want to consider either face plating the t56 or a swap to a tr6060.
I would probably just replace the bushing with a bearing and be done with it if it was me.
Got a pilot bearing on order 
I also have an underdrive pulley to go on. Apparently from a stock LS1 they have seen 13RWHP increase. Every little helps.
I also have an underdrive pulley to go on. Apparently from a stock LS1 they have seen 13RWHP increase. Every little helps.
About to order parts, and the 383 stroker kit is in the parts list. The eagle stroker kit wan't in stock. Even Eagle do not have a complete kit. So the parts play have come up with a kit for me., which has a K1 crank, scat rods, wiseco pistons and clevite bearings.
The CC of the pistons is to be decided. I know when I brought my heads and cam package there were two CC sizes fort the heads. I think may was a couple of CC below stock which I believe is 67cc, and I think my heads are 63cc, I do recall them having a 59cc on the selection, but I cannot be sure what one I went for. I believe stock compression ratio is about 10.2, and I thought at the time I had increased it to 10.78.
Anyway to be sure I have a compression ration between 10.5 and 11:1 then I must measure the CC of the heads so the correct pistons can be chosen.
This is how it is done.
[video=youtube;yqAr4DUqEt4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqAr4DUqEt4[/video]
I have my bit of plastic. Thought I had loads of polycarbonate around, but resorted to a CD case, however it doesn't drill well, hence the tape.
Now I need some coloured water (I can make yellow), also need a syringe with measurements on the side.
The CC of the pistons is to be decided. I know when I brought my heads and cam package there were two CC sizes fort the heads. I think may was a couple of CC below stock which I believe is 67cc, and I think my heads are 63cc, I do recall them having a 59cc on the selection, but I cannot be sure what one I went for. I believe stock compression ratio is about 10.2, and I thought at the time I had increased it to 10.78.
Anyway to be sure I have a compression ration between 10.5 and 11:1 then I must measure the CC of the heads so the correct pistons can be chosen.
This is how it is done.
[video=youtube;yqAr4DUqEt4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqAr4DUqEt4[/video]
I have my bit of plastic. Thought I had loads of polycarbonate around, but resorted to a CD case, however it doesn't drill well, hence the tape.
Now I need some coloured water (I can make yellow), also need a syringe with measurements on the side.
CC measured, and got 64cc. Stock LS1 is 67.3cc, Ls6 is 64.45cc. I believe my heads were originally LS6 before there were ported. So 64cc sounds pretty spot on.
So now I can get the correct compression ratio for my needs
So now I can get the correct compression ratio for my needs
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
oh yuck Dan!! Far too much information!
Ewww, I was talking about Apple squash.
Hopefully will get an email back from the parts place shortly. Now that that know the size of me heads.