Started dismantling Trans-Am engine

Started a thread on LS1 Tech. Always great advice on there. Someone has provided a link to a comparison between Fast 102mm and MSD 103mm. Thread has some good info. What gains to expect going from old Fast intake to Fast 102mm LSXR - LS1TECH

Good point Chris. Already done it. Pump can do 255l/hr of fuel. Injectors are 42lb hr, stock was 26lb hr. They were a pig to tine for minimum pulse width as there were so much bigger. Fuel rails are darn big too. So everything good to go.
 
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Well wot you waiting for!!!!! Your good to gooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Lol
 
The thread on the LS1 tech website has sparked some talking, a lot of people running their engines to 7k, some even 7.8k rpm. I have had my rev limit at 6.2k rpm. In theory as all my stuff will be new, then I can increase my RPM like them.

Darth_V8r said:
The MSD has shorter runners and a larger plenum. Everything a growing boy needs. But get it ported. Mamo did mine and made the runners 1/4" wider! Runners are straighter too, not curved like fast. On my 346, they crossed at 6400, but on LS7, MSD beat the fast at every rpm. I think that as you go bigger it makes more sense. Especially if your cam will have IVC later than 46 degrees.

As to sensors, it had 3 different places to run the map. You gotta drill out the one you want. I run rear mount. I ditched the maf went SD. I run the fbomb iat sensor out the front for accurate ambient temps.

NW 102 throttle bolts on.

If you got room a Holley 105 might also make sense.

Keep in mind, that was on a 346. Longer stroke will bring that crossover point down both in IVC and RPM. So, here is my best advice on it - be very honest with yourself about what your actual shift point will be. If you are going to shift at 6800, then get the fast102. The torque between 5200 and 6300 will be more valuable than the HP you gain from 6300-6800. If you are serious about shifting at 7200 or beyond, get the MSD. FWIW, I set my shift light to 7300, and I've done 7400 before. if you are a valvetrain geometry nzi, you can spin it. Mine is SBE, and I'm starting to get some smoke under hard acceleration, but i've got 160K on the bottom end. The last 60K have not been gentle. The bottom end is better than you might think.
Click to expand...

Well to be honest, higher RPM is like dating a girl for the first time. So I'm gonna be cautious, don't want it to go bang to soon. So I will be shifting under 7k. Which is pointing towards the Fast102 intake.
 
Surely you want to tune to build maximum torque lower down and produce peak Horsepower lower down the RPM range?
You aren't building an all out race car where every shift is at peak RPM. You are building a road car where you spend more time at an RPM much lower than than peak and for me peak horsepower would be far less than important than a broad torque range producing a wide spread of horsepower.
After all - how much racing do you do?
This would influence my intake choice. Long runners build torque. The short runners might be better if you just shooting for maximum horsepower.
Horsepower is only half the story....
 
True, I'm not going for all out racing. Probably want a little blast accelerating on a slip road to the motorway. a little play a lights. I would be after broad power range.
I'm now leaning towards tarting up my old intake, and perhaps change to that large Fast intake later on, The Fast intake has longer runners than the MSD.
 
In your typical road application I doubt the intake you have will be overly restricting. Clean it up and paint it Pontiac blue - save the cash for the 100hp shot of NOS which you can add to the engines output just when you need it.
 
The intake I have was a 20hp or so gain over stock. So it is a big improvement. Certainly good for the heads and cam combo I had. Its even been ported to match the cathedral intake port of the heads. So its probably not going to be much of a restriction. Going bigger may free some power, but I'm already gonna have more than I can use. So I think I will save £1500 for now, and tart up my current intake. I have another can of Pontiac blue paint.
IMAG4176.jpg
I'll paint the words Wilson in a different colour, I have some model car paint for that.

If you are wondering about the missing blue in the middle, it was filler there as soo many people commented I had a dent in the intake, the 'dent' was for the original fuel rails, so as I'm not using stock fuel rails I filed this in.
 
I'm sure that'll come up looking nice ;)
 
AmericanThunder said:
If it was me, I'd sand the word 'wilson' flat, and smooth it over. It adds nothing to the appearance.
Click to expand...

I was toying with the idea of putting this red hand mark next to the word Wilson from the film Castaway.
wilson.jpg
 
Cleaned the car after work today, looking nice and shiny.
IMAG4350.jpg

Cleaned under the bonnet too. Came up pretty good, the underside of the hood is in very good condition. Still more cleaning to do.
IMAG4349.jpg



Noticed this with the input shaft. Looking like the bearing has a bit of play in it. Another thing to be looked at. At least everything will be new and solid when it goes back together.
[video=youtube;QVtYAYwgEDI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVtYAYwgEDI[/video]

Got home, and started wrapping my dynatech exhaust headers.
IMAG4352.jpg
Nice evening to sit in the sun on the bench.
IMAG4351.jpg

Wrapping starting to come along well. Dam that stuff it itchy.
IMAG4353.jpg

IMAG4354.jpg
Come out rather nice int he end. Looking forward to doing the next one. Think I will do that one outside too, fine fibres get everywhere.
 
With the £1500 you were thinking about spending on the intake, I would have spent on a set of ceramic coated headers instead.
I'm not a fan of header wrap, either the looks or the fact it retains moisture and rusts the headers very quickly.
But as long as your happy, then thats what matters.
 
Just ordered the input shaft bearing and seal. Ordered from Rock Auto, I know there are equivalents and suppliers in the UK, just saves finding someone to call, who may not have it in stock . Its just hassle free from Rock Auto, and will be here by the end of the week.
 
I imagine, but don't know, that the remains of the bearings are in the gearbox sump.
Change the gearbox oil whilst you can. It's Dexron III or IV, and yes I know that's typically automatic transmission fluid but the pressures inside the T56 call for it.
 
Changed the gearbox oil a while back, its got Dextron III written on the side of the box along with a big ATF fluid only label. I would certainly want to put fresh in after this. I can't recall if it has a drain plug, I think it has a fill up plug only. So may be hard to get the remains out of the sump. There is a semi local gearbox place called Alders Automotive in Littlehampton. I may whip it down there, if I dont feel comfortable doing it ourselves.
 
Stoker kit will be here Friday. Just received the FedEx tracking number.
 
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